René Lalique – Broche – Lissabon Museu Calouste Gulbenkian
Author: Paul Hermans
Licence: (CC BY-SA 3.0)
‘Peacock’ Corsage Ornament of René Lalique
The ‘Peacock’ Corsage Ornament Of René Lalique is a famous piece of Jewellery designed by René Lalique. The peacock symbolized nobleness, status and wealth in art history. Moreover, it was a symbolic icon of protection and guidance, and it served as a sign of dignity and confidence in ancient cultures.
During the previous two centuries and throughout the historical-artistic presence of the peacock, the stylish creature has been used frequently in numerous applied arts. This crested pheasant has also appeared in René Lalique artwork extensively.
Calouste Gulbenkian acquired the peacock corsage ornament from René Lalique. It is one of the most spectacular pieces of jewellery ever created in the period of Art Nouveau. Gulbenkian was a Western businessman of Armenian origin, and as a successful, wealthy expert, he constantly appreciated Lalique’s work and commissioned many of the artist’s projects.
The cabochon stone, shaped by oval opals, attached evenly to the semi-circular jewel and created a relaxed symmetric look by placing an enormous peacock in the centre.
The Bird's Anatomy
Lalique had immersed himself in the bird’s anatomy and enriched the piece with gold, enamel, opal, and diamonds. The primary wing feathers mostly concealed under the secondary ones, and the small covering feathers as tertiaries all laid on an embossed body depicted the strong muscles of the peacock and put its splendour pose central.
The wavy motion of the peacock with the turned head, its sinuous movement of the feathers on the reticulate curved ornament, and the rotated peacock’s tail formed by golden stripes along the body to the left-wing increased the visual dynamism in design.
The dimensions of the jewel are 9.2 cm in height, 19 cm wide. The last location is still since 2011, the Calouste Gulbenkian Museum in Lisbon.
Get more information on this overview page.
Text: Lalerou
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