Jewellery Art Nouveau

Hair Comb, Lucien Gaillard

Rijksmuseum

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The Brilliance Of Jewellery in the Art Nouveau Era

I shall mention a few of Art Nouveau’s jewellery artists in this topic, such as Alphonse Fouquet and  René Lalique, and Georg Jensen.

Alphonse Fouquet, a prominent 19th-century Parisian jeweller, was famous because of his extensive use of enamel and coloured stone. He had disapproved the works of his contemporaries work in the same industry but had said about Lalique: “Till now, I didn’t know any jewellery designers, but now, here we have one!”

The famous French Industrial designer of the Art Nouveau’s period, René Lalique, had extensive skills and expertise in glass art, jewellery and the watch industry. He also produced decorative art products such as crystal vases, chandeliers and decorative hoods. During his youth, he put a lot of effort to acquire the knowledge required for the delicate techniques of applied art.

Lalique had apprenticed to Louis Aucoc, the Parisian Art Nouveau jeweller and goldsmith, and continued his work as a freelance artist with the famous Jewel factory, Cartier. Lalique cooperated later with the Maison de l’Art Nouveau; an art gallery opened in Paris by the Franco-German art dealer Siegfried Bing. A British-Armenian businessman Calouste Gulbenkian gathered an extensive art collection and commissioned many of René Lalique’s work due to his fortune.

René Lalique, like other artists influenced by Art Nouveau, gained his inspiration from natural forms such as the sinuous curves of irises, pansies, vines, and orchids. His jewellery motifs evoked the shapes of creatures like swans, peacocks, dragonflies and even mythological creatures and female silhouettes. Converting the modern materials, particularly fine-wrought gold, into delicate asymmetric lines was a new challenge for jewellery as ancient art.

The Low Prized Modern Jewellery

Although Art Nouveau created quite expensive products in interior and architectural ornaments, it abandoned the lavish Victorian jewellery style. Creativity and innovation were preferred above the use of costly stones. René Lalique beautified jewellery by setting enamel and glass to gold and diamond side by side. It took not long that he was honoured as the “inventor of modern jewellery”.

The value of the late 19th-century jewellery wasn’t based only on the applied raw materials but on its design and the use of light and colour. The Art Nouveau jewellers combined gold, silver and other expensive stones with some low prized pieces as ivory and horn. Unexpectedly, the enamelling work with semi-precious and inexpensive materials had boosted the value of the jewellery products.

The enamelling technique changed jewellery fundamentally during the Art Nouveau era. This technique added a new dimension to jewellery’s appearance and included other methods such as basse-taille, champleve, cloisonné, and plique-à-jour.

Another important artist of jewellery’s design in the years of passing the 19 to 20th century was Georg Jensen, a Danish silversmith who combined metalsmithing with fine arts in his creations.

Text: Lalerou
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